Inside the Mind of The World's Most Fearless Surfer

Transcript

You're very much a performance machine. Like you've got everything dialed. You're operating at a really high level. It's crazy. Like the heat starts and I just click into this like mode where I'm just like I'm winning. But at the same time, you are this, you know, Northshore kid who just wants to have fun and pal around with his guys. Competition f... Read More