'Le Habit Noir': Men in Black - Professor Lynda Nead

TL;DR

This lecture explores the symbolic importance of fashion in the 19th century, particularly focusing on the significance of men in black suits and women in red dresses.

Transcript

I'd like to add my welcome to you and thank you for coming to the first of this series of lectures on fashion art and modernity in the nineteenth century as Roderick has already mentioned this subject is something of a new direction for the Gresham College public lectures when Gresham was established in 1597 under the will of Sir Thomas Gresham its... Read More

Key Insights

• 🥰 The history of art emerged as an academic discipline in the 19th century within German universities, focusing on understanding the development of art in historical contexts and its relationship to social conditions.
• 🛟 Fashion was an important aspect of modern life in the 19th century, serving as a symbol of identity and reflecting the transitory nature of society.
• 🤬 The black suit became a symbol of power and authority for middle-class professional men, representing discipline and austerity.
• 🇬🇧 The swell, a flamboyant version of the dandy, became a popular figure in British society, symbolizing both vanity and predatory masculinity.

Questions & Answers

Q: Why was the history of art not included in the original subjects taught at Gresham College?

Gresham College was established in the 16th century to provide education independent of the universities. While subjects like astronomy, law, and divinity were included, the history of art was not considered an academic discipline until the 19th century.

Q: What is the significance of men wearing black suits in the 19th century?

The black suit became a symbol of power and authority for the rising middle-class professional men of the 19th century. It conveyed a sense of discipline and austerity, befitting the new social class.

Q: How did fashion play a role in defining modern life in the 19th century?

Fashion became a potent symbol of the transitory nature of modern urban life. Constant changes in fashion were seen as a reflection of the speed and progression of modern society, and fashion allowed individuals to express their identities in a rapidly changing world.

Q: What were the key developments in the 19th century that impacted fashionable dress?

Major cities like Paris and London underwent urban modernization, with old streets and buildings being replaced. The development of new forms of leisure and retail, such as department stores and fashion magazines, also influenced fashion trends.

Summary & Key Takeaways

• This lecture introduces the history of art as an academic discipline from the 19th century and its emergence within German universities as a way to understand the relationship between art and social conditions.

• The lecturer emphasizes the importance of critically analyzing visual images in today's visually-oriented world and explores the interdisciplinary nature of the history of art.

• The lecture series specifically focuses on the relationship between fashion, art, and modernity in the 19th century, examining how fashion was used to define, celebrate, and criticize modern life.